Baccarossa Poggio Le Volpi
NERO BUONO DI CORI
Grape varieties with a somewhat limited geographical extension are not unknown in the world of wine, but Nero Buono di Cori is somewhat unusual even in a context of this sort. The variety appears to be cultivated almost exclusively in and around the territory of Cori, a township located in the province of Latina some thirty five miles to the south of Rome. The town is in the area of the Latium region known as “Ciociara”, whose inhabitants took their name from the “cioce”, or sandals with leg wrappings which resemble puttees, once worn by the agricultural laborers of the zone. Ciociara is better known nowadays for its full-flavored, rustic cuisine which has given many dishes to the popular restaurants and taverns of Rome: spaghetti alla carbonara, with eggs and bacon added to the pasta; tasty sauces featuring chicken livers and gizzards; bean soup; pasta e fagioli, pasta in a bean sauce with abundant seasoning of rosemary.
In vinous terms, Latium is best known for the white wines produced in copious quantities from vineyards to the southeast of Rome, an area generally known as the Castelli Romani. Some red wine is produced to the south of Rome, in the provinces of Latina and Frosinone, but principally from various types of the Cesanese grape and of very varying quality. Wines from Nero Buono di Cori, therefore, represent something of a break with local habits, an attempt to make serious and ambitious red wines in an area with little of this kind of tradition. At the same time, however, it is obviously an attempt to bring to light an important potential of the zone, previously little appreciated and certainly not the object of sustained efforts by local producers.
The first results, accordingly, are only indicative, by no means definitive, but they suggest that Nero Buono di Cori is capable of giving wines of good color and concentration, of significant aging potential, and anything but the type of quaffing wine that Latium has previously been better known for. The tannins are firm, the acidity sustained and bracing, and the wine seems to fall into the family represented by Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, austere and of important structure, not immediately seductive but well worth the patience to await the rounding and softening that proper winemaking techniques – including warm fermentations of a certain length and an intelligent use of oak barrels for aging – can give.
Poggio Le Volpi
These are the best vines which only become part of the Poggio delle Volpi brand after long and careful selection.
They extend over an area lying between the slopes of Monte Porzio Catone and the Roman countryside.
The land is rich and welcoming, where the animals – especially wolves – can still find an ecosystem which is largely uncontaminated. We like to think that, just as in Aesop’s Fables, this land is where the best grapes grow, the ones the wolf tries in vain to get hold of … a land with excellent exposure, where, from time immemorial, the vines have been able to benefit from a truly exceptional natural microclimate.
The Poggio Le Volpi Estate was established in the 90s by Felice Mergè, a man of unusually keen insight.
The young oenologist is Armando Mergè’s son, and is the third generation of the branch of a family whose progenitor is Mario Mergè. Mario Mergè began his work back in the 20s, concentrating mainly on viticulture and olive growing and marketing his products.
He passed his life and work experiences on to the large second generation of the family, experiences which have found vigour and reached full meaning through the bold, enterprising spirit of grandson Felice, wholly supported by the solid, active drive of his father Armando.
Poggio Le Volpi has an image which is second to none for the quality and elegance of its wines.
These wines are the precious jewels which have ennobled the estate’s pedigree due to the praise and appreciation heaped upon them in the refined and exclusive niche wines segment.